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C1.0 Maritime Hydrodynamics

Introduction to surface water waves. Generation mechanisms of wind waves. Review of small amplitude waves and of their transformations in shallow water: refraction, diffraction, reflection, wave breaking. Wave-current interaction. Long waves. Non-linear waves: higher order Stokes waves, finite amplitude waves in shallow water, Boussinesq approximation. The variational principle and nonlinear dispersion. Wave–wave interactions in deep and shallow waters. Wave breaking processes in the surf zone. Spectral representation of waves, energy balance and wave field evolution processes. Wave hindcasting based on environmental data and definition of design parameters of coastal structures. The above subjects are organized in educational units and time sequence as follows:

  1. Introduction – Wind and wind-generated waves.
  2. Overview of linear wave theory.
  3. Wave transformation in shallow waters and wave-current interaction.
  4. Mild-slope equation and its approximations.
  5. Long waves and their important properties in practical applications.
  6. Nonlinear waves and wave propagation models.
  7. Surf zone and processes affecting the coast.
  8. Wave representation through two- or three-dimensional spectra.
  9. Wave hindcasting based on metocean data.
  10. Statistical properties of waves and design parameters.